17 April 2014

Manly Lace Mitts

In March, I partook of a spinalong. We all received the same fiber--two 100-gram braids of Haunui Halfbred (one dyed, one natural grey) and about 50 grams of dyed mohair locks. I decided to take some of the undyed fiber and dye it a deep red, because I wanted to make a crepe yarn with some colour contrast.

Here is the yarn:
Lake Sumner crepe yarn
March spinalong closeup

I've always wanted to find a manly lace pattern to knit, as well--but they don't really exist. There are a few scarves, perhaps, but few other articles of clothing can be described as both "lace" and "manly."

So I wrote my own pattern and knit some mitts.
Manly Lace Mitts
Manly Lace Mitts

For those who are interested in knitting a set for yourselves, here's the pattern:

Size 10 US needles

Worsted- or aran-weight yarn (the handspun yarn I used to develop this pattern had 8 wpi). I end up with 2.5 stitches per inch (10.25 inches with the full 26 stitches).

  • If using worsted- or aran-weight yarn and your swatch matches the measurement I made (10 stitches and 22 rows in pattern = about 4 inches square—well, rhombus; the fabric will lean to the right or left, depending on whether you use k2tog or SSK in your swatch) but you want to adjust the width for a smaller or larger forearm, reduce or increase CO stitches by increments of two. If you reduce or increase the number of stitches by 4, reduce or increase the number of pattern repeats before the thumb gusset pattern to 5 or 7; if you reduce or increase by 8 (for children or grizzly bears perhaps), reduce or increase the number of pattern repeats before the thumb gusset pattern to 4 or 8. For smaller thumbs, knit only the first three thumb gusset pattern increase. For larger thumbs (likely unnecessary, as this is a stretchy knit), knit an additional thumb gusset increase.
  • If you go with a heavier yarn, reduce the number of stitches by increments of two, consider increasing needle size, consider doing only the first three increases in the thumb gusset (rows 1 through 12), and adjust the number of repeats you knit in row 17 so that you’re ending at the end of the thumb gusset to knit the thumb.
  • If you go with a lighter yarn, increase the number of stitches by increments of two, consider additional pattern repeats for the thumb gusset (for every additional repeat in the thumb gusset, add an additional SSK, yo between the two k1, yo), and adjust the number of repeats you knit in row 17 so that you’re ending at the end of the thumb gusset to knit the thumb.

Before knitting, whether following the pattern or modifying it, please swatch first!

Purl all even rows unless otherwise noted. Some even rows are noted at the ends of sections because they’re important not to forget.

For right mitt:

CO 26 stitches using a stretchy cast-on, such as long-tail cast-on.

1st row: K all
3rd row: k1, *yo, k2tog* repeat between * until 1 stitch remains, k1
4th row: P all

Repeat 3rd and 4th row in pattern until you want to start the thumb gusset. 10 repeats should give you about 4 inches of fabric, which will be the part of the mitt on the wrist and below. If you want it longer or shorter, knit more or fewer repeats.

Thumb gusset for right mitt:

1st row: k1, *SSK, yo* repeat between * 6 times, k1, yo, k1, yo, *SSK, yo* until 1 stitch remains, k1 (increase of 2)
3rd row: k1, *SSK, yo* until 1 stitch remains, k1
5th row: k1, *SSK, yo* repeat between * 6 times, k1, yo, SSK, yo, k1, yo, *SSK, yo* until 1 stitch remains, k1 (increase of 2)
7th row: k1, *SSK, yo* until 1 stitch remains, k1
9th row: k1, *SSK, yo* repeat between * 6 times, k1, yo, SSK, yo, SSK, yo, k1, yo, *SSK, yo* until 1 stitch remains, k1 (increase of 2)
11th row: k1, *SSK, yo* until 1 stitch remains, k1
13th row: k1, *SSK, yo* repeat between * 6 times, k1, yo, SSK, yo, SSK, yo, SSK, yo, k1, yo, *SSK, yo* until 1 stitch remains, k1 (increase of 2)

At this point, you’ve increased 8 stitches and should have 34 on your needles.

Thumb for right mitt:

15th row: k1, *SSK, yo* until 1 stitch remains, k1
17th row: k1, *SSK, yo* repeat between * 11 times, turn, and cast on 1 stitch
18th row: p9, turn and cast on 1 stitch (10 stitches)

19th row: k1, *SSK, yo* until 1 stitch remains, k1
21st row: k1, *SSK, yo* until 1 stitch remains, k1
23rd row: k1, *SSK, yo* until 1 stitch remains, k1
24th row: P all

Bind off using a stretchy bindoff. I like to purl, yarn over, purl, slip two stiches over, yarn over, purl, slip two stitches over, etc. Seam thumb to base.

With right side facing forward, rejoin wool. Pick up 1 stitch from base of thumb, *SSK, yo* until 1 stitch remains, k1. 26 stitches remain.

Continue in k1, *SSK, yo* until 1 stitch remains, k1 pattern until mitt is length desired, then P ws and stretchy bindoff, then seam the side using the two edge stockinette stitches. Weave in ends.



For left mitt:

CO 26 stitches using a stretchy cast-on, such as long-tail cast-on.

1st row: K all
3rd row: k1, *SSK, yo* repeat between * until 1 stitch remains, k1
4th row: P all

Repeat 3rd and 4th row in pattern until you want to start the thumb gusset. 10 repeats should give you about 4 inches of fabric, which will be the part of the mitt on the wrist and below. If you want it longer or shorter, knit more or fewer repeats.

Thumb gusset for left mitt:

1st row: k1, *yo, k2tog* repeat between * 6 times, yo, k1, yo, k1, * yo, k2tog * until 1 stitch remains, k1 (increase of 2)
3rd row: k1, * yo, k2tog * until 1 stitch remains, k1
5th row: k1, * yo, k2tog * repeat between * 6 times, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, * yo, k2tog * until 1 stitch remains, k1 (increase of 2)
7th row: k1, * yo, k2tog * until 1 stitch remains, k1
9th row: k1, * yo, k2tog * repeat between * 6 times, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, * yo, k2tog * until 1 stitch remains, k1 (increase of 2)
11th row: k1, * yo, k2tog * until 1 stitch remains, k1
13th row: k1, * yo, k2tog* repeat between * 6 times, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, yo, k2tog, yo, k1, * yo, k2tog * until 1 stitch remains, k1 (increase of 2)

At this point, you’ve increased 8 stitches and should have 34 on your needles.

Thumb for left mitt:

15th row: k1, *yo, k2tog* until 1 stitch remains, k1
17th row: k1, *yo, k2tog* repeat between * 11 times, turn, and cast on 1 stitch
18th row: p9, turn and cast on 1 stitch (10 stitches)

19th row: k1, *yo, k2tog* until 1 stitch remains, k1
21st row: k1, *yo, k2tog* until 1 stitch remains, k1
23rd row: k1, *yo, k2tog* until 1 stitch remains, k1
24th row: P all

Bind off using a stretchy bindoff. I like to purl, yarn over, purl, slip two stiches over, yarn over, purl, slip two stitches over, etc. Seam thumb to base.

With right side facing forward, rejoin wool. Pick up 1 stitch from base of thumb, *yo, k2tog* until 1 stitch remains, k1. 26 stitches remain.

Continue in k1, *yo, k2tog* until 1 stitch remains, k1 pattern until mitt is length desired, then P ws and stretchy bindoff, then seam the side using the two edge stockinette stitches. Weave in ends.

2 comments:

great looking mitts....thanks for the pattern

Really nice mittens! You are so talented! I wish I could do something like this! Great work!

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